Don't get me wrong, there's excitement to be had around every corner living here and I am learning on a daily basis, but there is only so much one can write about seeing everything and anything being masterfully balanced on heads of adults and children alike; the torrential rain that soaks you to the bone within seconds; the constant cries of 'muzungu' as I step outside my house; the consumption of local banana-beer at seven in the morning by neighbours; and the rolling lush green hills and mountains that surround me. But today, I have something to write about…
I returned this week from an amazingly lavish and luxurious holiday in South Africa - certainly not a lifestyle associated with a volunteer but hey, what are savings for if not to enjoy life?
I landed in Jo'burg with much anticipation and joy as I knew that after a night's sleep, I'd be united with my older sister - weekly Skype dates are not a substitute for seeing someone face-to-face! As I passed the never-ending malls that lined the motorway on my route to my hotel, I began to feel overwhelmed - reverse culture-shock hit me hard! But that feeling soon passed and I quickly found myself whizzing around said malls with my sister trying to fill every crevice of space left in my hand-luggage-sized case with 'essentials' for life back in Rwanda.
But this is not what I want to write about…
I wanted to write about history - a history that was not so long ago, a history that happened in my lifetime. In fact, two events that occurred simultaneously within the same continent but starkly contrasting in nature.
Twenty years ago, the world stood helpless and in horror as brutal and unthinkable killings took place across Rwanda over the course of 100 days claiming nearly one million lives. At the same time, the world followed with great interest, joy and anticipation at the free and fair presidential elections taking place within the same continent, which saw Nelson Mandela elected as the first democratic president of South Africa. Both events so starkly contrasting in their nature and yet so intrinsically linked - both resulting in the fight against racial segregation/dominance and both being covered by the media across the world - but which took precedence in the eyes of the media/the world? There are arguments that media coverage of Mandela's success overshadowed what was taking place in Rwanda. But could more media coverage have prevented/reduced the devastation of the genocide in Rwanda? Were the eyes of the world wrongly focused on South Africa instead of Rwanda? I found this article quite interesting to read when looking into this issue:
I remember hearing about both events on the news but as a primary-school-aged child, what could I do? What was the significance of it all in my life? Little did I know that exactly twenty years later, I'd be living in one of the countries whilst visiting the other - seeing and experiencing the effects and changes that occurred as a result of these two major events.
Last week, Rwanda began commemorating 20 years since the genocide. For more information on this, see Kwibuka 20. Rwanda on the surface has progressed in so many areas since the horrific events that occurred in '94. People are thought to have moved forward, putting the past behind them and looking towards a brighter future - but the events of '94 continue to haunt and affect so many people.
I am privileged enough to hear people's stories and memories of this time and with each testimony, I am left with an unsettling sense that issues are deep rooted, unresolved and continue to dictate daily living. I mentioned above the people who I see drunk at 7am on banana beer - a cheap, locally brewed drink with a high alcohol content. They drink to escape their memories, their past and even their future. Beneath the smiles and daily greetings there is an underlying sadness and I can't help but feel helpless.
Next month sees presidential elections in South Africa. The Apartheid regime may be a part of South Africa's history, but upon visiting last week, it is evident to see that breaking the chains of history are not so easy. Whilst SA has moved forward and attitudes are changed - unspoken racial segregation/dominance still exists and is very much evident. Like Rwanda, on the surface, SA has developed rapidly but scratch beyond the celebrations and pride of a free and democratic country, habits have formed that aren't easy to break and plastered wounds have left deep-set scars, a daily reminder that things aren't quite right.
I know that wounds take time to heal; that scars aren't always bad - being reminded of what WAS can help us to be thankful for what IS and hopeful for what WILL BE - I just need to remember that all of this takes time and not to forget that the process in reaching a desired destination/goal involves challenges and pain/s. Progress should be celebrated, appreciated and applauded but the road ahead remains long and windy. And without meaning for this to be a mere 'add-on' - I now feel ready to face Easter…I am beginning to understand a bit more of Christ's love and the hope that the cross brings through all that I have seen and heard this last week.
Apologies for the heavy read - Happy Easter lovely readers!
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